Travel Diary: Portugal

Browsing the shops in Comporta I overheard a lovely British woman gently lament to her young daughter: “There are too many pretty things.” And while she was referring to baubles (likely imported from China), her commentary could easily describe so much of what I saw in Portugal: the sea-carved cliffs of the Algarve, the Seussian cork forests in Comporta, the food, the pottery and of course the tile. The collective decision to cover apartments and churches and sign posts and street numbers in so much ceramic immediately won me over. Do I have the urge to buy a kiln, become a pescatarian and get myself a golden visa? Of course I do. Until then, here are the highlights from a very pretty trip to Portugal.

Lisbon

Packed with personality (essential for a city built on back-breaking cobblestone hills), Lisbon has an unexpected, easy charm (and much more to offer than Pastel de Nata). We stayed at the Lumiares Hotel in the Barrio Alto/Chiado region which is a stone’s throw from the best shopping, yellow trams, scenic vistas (including the hotel rooftop) and museums. Our trip was surprisingly (if you know me) museum lite. But luckily my family was game for a 25 minute Bolt ride from our hotel to the wonderful National Tile Museum which covers the history and artistry of Lisbon’s ceramic love affair. The museum is also attached to a church filled with relic-related curiosities so, bonus. We also took a Bolt to Belem, worth visiting for the gorgeous gothic monastery and stellar eats like Canalha and Pastel de Belem. While the maze of hills can feel daunting at first, Lisbon is entirely walkable (in flats!). We meandered through all of the city’s neighborhoods on the hunt for authentic Portuguese goods. Favorite shops: Oficina Marques, A Vida Portuguesa and Depozito.

Obidos

Our day trip to Sintra got cancelled due to wild fires, so we pivoted and drove to Obidos, a white-washed medieval town ringed with an impressively intact castle wall. This is a something for everyone kind of stop: shopping, churches, ramparts to climb and explore. While the town thrives on its past, I was thrilled to discover its entirely modern love affair with literature. Famous for its bookstores (there are 14 total, including one in a converted church), the town holds an international literary festival and was named a UNESCO City of Literature in 2015. I was tickled to find one of the bookstores doubling as a market with produce and fish amidst the stacks. After Obidos we stopped to see the Edge of the World and took a spin around Cascais before heading back to the city.

Algarve

The best way to see Southern Portugal’s iconic limestone cliffs, caves and beaches is by boat, especially in August. Avoid the beach crowds and book a Benagil cave tour (or kayak, if that’s your thing). We were wowed by the rock formations and also the captain who maneuvered the boat with surgical precision in and out of caves and inlets. If you love a cute town like me, Lagos fits the bill. Look for the cobblestone Octopus mosaic. While the coast is the main attraction, my favorite Algarve activity was a farm-to-table, family-style dinner at Morgado do Quintao winery. Nevermind the mosquitos, there’s something entirely life affirming about breaking bread with a small group of strangers from around the world. For authentic ceramics, don’t miss Porches Pottery where you can shop and watch the (all female) artisans at work behind the counter.

Comporta

Comporta is a bohemian daydream. Maybe it’s the air, or the captivating cork forests or the shock of green from the rice fields. This sleepy beach enclave lives up to its nickname (The Hamptons of Portugal) with incredible shopping (The Life Juice, Cajun Comporta), food and posh yet laidback beach clubs (JNCquois). We zipped around the rice fields on electric bikes, rode horseback by the ocean and visited a fascinating fishing pier built on stilts. Design lovers: don’t miss the Sublime Comporta hotel and Christian Louboutin’s swoon-worthy Verhmelho Hotel—every inch is perfection.